East To Merzouga

14th March


We awoke with a severe hangover, we didn't feel like driving but we have to move on unfortunately.
Tafraoute has by far been the best place we have stayed, the scenery, the town everything about it is good, but we have to move on to see other parts of Morocco to use as a comparison. It is definitely a place we will return too and stay longer next time! So we said our farewells and made our way to Tata. The drive again was stunning and I took some video which when I get good Internet connection I will put on YouTube. We stopped on route at an Oasis for lunch, and enjoyed the the tranquillity and fantastic scenery.


We then drove onto Tata 29°44'50.9"N 7°58'23.8"W. The campsite is in the centre of town,  80dir p/n inc leccy, It's ok as we only plan to stay one night then drive onto Foum Zguid.

Tata is situated on the Sahara plain and not far from Algeria. It is another town with a high Army presence.






Tata High Street



Sam's dad Neil had mailed her to ask if we are alright, himself and Pauline are Saturday morning readers and was concerned because the blog had not been published,  once again our internet connection is poor and I was unable to upload photo's.  I have however been able to open a sports page to see Wales have beaten Ireland in the 6 nations, and England have limped to victory over Scotland, all to play for in the last game.

15th March


We set off for Foum Zguid,there is only one petrol station in Tata, and none on route, we eventually found it after driving around for some time.  There was a power outage at the petrol station, “power outages are quite common and frequent in Morocco” and the attendant had the front cover of the pump casing off, he took a reading from the internal flow meter, he then had to hand crank the pulley to fill me up,  we took turns on the crank as I noticed his arm was tiring, he then took another reading took out his pad, subtracted the readings on his calculator, multiplied that by the cost per litre and we were on our way! By this time there were several vehicles waiting and a lot of Arabic or possibly French! was being gesticulated by the irate drivers!  Patience I murmured to myself. 
The drive was pleasant, quite flat for miles with long stretches of straight road. We stopped at a waterfall at Tissint, about an hour out of Tata. “Casades du Atiq”


 

 
We left and proceeded on our way, shortly after we were diverted onto a makeshift road to pass another bridge that did not stand up to the floods in November



We arrived at Camping Kaima Park in Foum Zguid. 30°04'47.6"N 6°52'14.2"W  40dir p/n. situated as you enter the town.



52 days to Timbuktoo

Looks like the work of an early Billy Bridgend

There is only one other van here when we arrive, it’s a small site, we set up and check the place out. Later on a convoy of German travellers arrive on a guided tour, and the site became quite congested.


16th March


Our intention was to stop at Zagora. Our satnav does not recognise the new section of N12 between Foum Zguid and Zagora and it says it will be roughly 3hrs via the R111 and R108 and down, however I have been informed by Dave that the road is good and newly constructed, so we veer right as we leave Foum Zguid onto the N12, satnav now say 8hrs?  A  few km down I stop to help a motorcyclist that has a puncture, good deed done we carry on and after driving a few km off road “piste” on a section of unfinished N12 we are soon close to Zagora. We reset the satnav for Tazzerine to split what is a long drive from Zagora to Merzouga and head there.



We entered Zagora and found we were on the N12!! we had been informed that this section is definitely not finished, and we come across a sign saying the next 49km is Piste. We turned around reset the satnav to avoid this and were back into Zagora and onto the N9.



The drive took us through miles and miles of Palm trees and the odd villages. There were plenty of date vendors selling along the road and again the scenery is superb.

Arriving at Tazzerine we found the site Camping Amasttou, it was a good job it was sign posted as my satnav did not recognise the area! 30°46'29.1"N 5°33'45.1"W



We are the only van here, and have the place to ourselves. We ordered a meal for the evening and took Max for a walk, we walked a few hundred metres and turned into a side street, that led into other side streets and a short time later we tried to find our way back but were completely lost in the Kasbah. I took some  video at first but soon stopped. Max was attracting a lot of attention due to his unique looks and we had children following us, also many people were giving us a wide berth as Max approached, I don’t think he looks like an American Pit Bull?



Get your bearings before you enter

The work of a master builder
No plumb lines used here

I recalled seeing the Mosque and we tried to make our way to it, but the side streets are a maze and we found ourselves back where we were earlier! It would soon be getting dark if we did not find the route back. After a while we came across an area that seemed familiar when we first entered the labyrinth. I had noticed a wall which I had marvelled at the construction and we retracted our way back and were at base camp! The site is nice and peaceful, they have Berber tents for accommodation, but it would not be my cup of tea!



The Snug/Smoke Room

That evening we enjoyed a meal in one of the palm huts, and then turned in for an early night

The North Star

17th March


We headed out early, picked up the N12. Along the drive we saw lots of Berber tents in the fields with camels wandering.
Morocco is a fascinating place for scenery, one minute you are driving through rocky gorges. the next you are driving for endless miles of straight roads where you will hardly see any other traffic for ages, passing through remote villages along the way. It changes from lush green vegetation to Oasis and then Hamada, you see groups of men sitting at cafes whilst the women are toiling in the heat in the fields. “they have embraced equal rights long ago”


We started to see the dunes of Erg Chebbi as we approached Rissani and into Merzouga. We see vendors selling camel milk. As we drove through the town I heard a shout, It was Ken in a cafe having a coffee with Lynda and Dave we stopped and had a quick chat then drove to the campsite to park up. 31°05'50.7"N 4°00'23.4"W



Erg Chebbi in the distance

Dave and Ken's van's parked to the left

A few trekking off for the trip into the desert for the night

We are close to the  Erg Chebbi dunes, stopping at Camping Les Roches, 50dir p/n inc leccy also they have wifi in the courtyard  area. Merzouga is noted for it’s camel excursions into the desert  and they set off each evening from outside the campsite to stay at Bedouin tents. We had a few drinks with our friends that evening and Dave tells me that they tried to climb to the top of the highest dune but had failed a few days earlier! I tell them that a Welsh flag will fly from the top tomorrow,



18th March


Today I walked into the town with the guys to do some bits of shopping. Ken got himself fitted out with a traditional Berber outfit


Ken in his Berber outfit

We stopped and had a coffee and they asked which way I was going to tackle the climb? I had noticed all the quad bikes and off road bikes were ascending from the side. they had tried the North face a few days earlier and said the sand was too soft near the top and failed, they could not do it on their hands and knees, and the sand was too hot. My plan was to take the longer route from the side.
I left later while it was a little cloudy and cool, an opportune time.  Dave said he would accompany me, as he wanted to save face on the MHF forum for failing, you remember he had done the surfboard at Tafraoute. So we left base along with Sam and Max to walk about 1500m to the bottom of the highest dune. It was hard walking over the dunes and about two thirds of the way Sam and Max had enough and turned around.


Heading to Base Camp

We carried on and made steady headway before our first break of many, my boat shoes had filled with sand so decided to walk barefoot, further up we stopped and watched some dirt bikes descend. We kept plotting our stops  and looked back and two others were also attempting the climb, the sun was now out from behind the clouds and making the climb tougher, we did 30 metres at a time and then stopped for water and catch our breath, the sand was soft and hard to climb. With the other two now getting closer we upped the tempo and hit the summit.


The first Welsh flag to fly from the summit

Success on the 2nd attempt 

Algeria in the background

It felt good, the view from the top you can see over to Algeria. I got my flags out for a photo shoot, I knew Dave would not want to miss out and had brought my RAF flag, he had been ribbed on the MHF forum for failing, now he had the bragging rights and photo as proof. We were joined shortly by a Dutch couple half our age!! he tells us he has climbed Mount Snowdon and it was easier?  We took some photo’s of them, and they did likewise.



Admiring the views

After admiring the views from the top for some time, we descended down the North face, the sand was much softer and I could see why they had failed, it was much harder than the route we triumphed, although shorter.



You can see the Dutch couple at the top



A Berber des res we came across on our return

Back at the campsite Sam told me Max had struggled on the way back and was stopping under any bushes for shelter, she even had to carry him as the sand was too hot for his pads.
A French chap who had arrived today, approached the van later and stroked Max, out of the blue he tells me his dog died two days ago! it was panting and panting then died. The dog was 14 and had been on many a journey with him, he showed me a picture and I could see tears welling in his eyes as he spoke, I said to him to go for a walk into the dunes and remember the good times. “I thought of Sam and Scrumpy and was close to tears also”  He composed himself as if embarrassed by his actions, and told me he was ok, he has buried his best pal over here in Morocco and will return to visit!  The chap is as fit as a fiddle,  in his mid 70’s, he is travelling in tow with a woman companion in 4x4 Toyota Land Cruisers, He has been to Mali, Algeria, Tunisia, Senegal, Libya on previous trips obviously when times when it was a lot safer, and you did not have these extremist idiots running amok in the name of Allah!!  I felt for him.
Later in the evening Ken, Lynda and Dave ate a meal with them in the restaurant, he told them he was an ex ice skater/coach, and had met Torville and Dean and Robin Cousens in his time.
We ordered a meal from the restaurant, Harissa soup, Brochettes with chips and some fruit, and ate in the van, delish.  I slept like a log.


19th March


I felt tired today after yesterdays excursions. It is not as warm and it’s cloudy, maybe it has something to do with the eclipse tomorrow. I try out the new software for the blog, It seems easier fingers crossed. I also made a Moroccan bread pudding with dates figs and almonds and honey, I will try a piece on Sam in the morning! 

Some pics of the site

The wind picked up later in the afternoon and the sand was blowing everywhere, I had to peg the mat down for fear of loosing it, and blowing into the desert like a magic carpet.



The wind was picking up

We will get up early tomorrow and walk into the dunes to look at the eclipse, Later tonight it would rain! In the desert!! We have not seen the wet stuff for so long?  And neither had Merzouga.




20th March


We got up to see the eclipse but the sun was so bright overhead we saw nothing?
We said goodbye to the French couple traveling in the Land Cruisers

Au Revoir

Not sure how well this Windows Live Writer pans out but here goes?

I have posted a few more video’s YouTube that are not hyperlinked for those Interested.