6th May
After doing a quick shop we headed out of Braganca and onto Spain. Drove through the Parque Natural de Montesinho and through the last town Portelo in Portugal and shortly after we have entered the region of Castilla y Leon
We have lost an hour again with the different time zones and have to reset all the clocks, we will get it back on our return to the UK! The road took us through the Reserva Nacional de la Sierra de la Culebra, very scenic, and over a very high mountain range “Sierra de la Atalya” into the town of Puebla de Santabria, our first Max stop.
We picked up the A52 another marvellous piece of highway, that has been recently built, taking you up and down over more mountain ranges, going through many tunnels and viaducts, all named and with their length, some over 900m long, and onto the province of Galecia. After taking the OU 553 we followed many lakes, and had our second Max break at a place called Aguas Mansas.
An idyllic place to stop for the night.
It was then onto todays stop, to a town called A Rua de Valdeorras. 42.38794 –7.11492 a free Aire with normal services, with a small bar and restaurant, very handy, and besides another lake.
86 miles 2hrs 50min
There is a park opposite with a picnic area, this is a nice spot to stop for the evening, we are the only van here.
7th May
We decided to take a walk into the town before we left, and it was deceiving, We had thought it was just a small town, but it is quite spread out, there is a market here on a Thursday, with stalls laid out on the roads, selling all kinds of stuff. Outside the many bars were large 30 gallon pots boiling away ontop of gas burners, with buckets of octopus waiting to be dropped in, the octopus looked alive! and they are served on round wooden cutting boards, it was still early morning,and the fresh octopus had yet to be dispatched to its quick demise.
Plenty of salt cod and Iberian ham, traders here.
Walking back we came across this statue of a woman playing the bagpipes, A Galecian tradition?
These trees are everywhere in Spain! I first saw them in Tapia de Cassariego in November. They are trained and grafted to interlock as if holding hands. I don’t know what they are though?
I’m glad we stopped to look around before leaving. Todays stop is at a place called Astorga
73 miles 1hr 30min
We had planned to go on a scenic route to Ponferrada, and onwards, but shortly out of A Rua we missed the turn!
We found todays stop is outside a bullring, free with good services. 42.451380, -6.065930
When there’s a scheduled bullfight on, it is hard to find a place to park, in the campervan bays.
There are a few vans here, some Spanish and French and another British van? A stroll into the town to find a phone shop, we came across some fine buildings.
Astorga has a rich history, with artifactual evidence stretching back over 200,000 years, predating the Paleolithic. An amazing place to visit for anyone in the area.
Cathedral of Astorga
This old church was rebuilt in the 15th century on the foundations of a previous Roman church
Episcopal Palace of Astorga.
This fine Palicio was designed by Antoni Gaudi
We found a Spanish phone shop Yoigo, and was able to buy a sim card for the internet, albeit expensive, 20€ for the card which includes 600Mb, it is then 7€ to recharge it for another 600Mb. I’ll not use it till necessary. The town itself is nice with plenty of everything.
Back at the site later we met Tim Wright, the owner of the British van we saw earlier and got chatting. He has retired from his profession as an Electrical tutor, at a the grand age of 54, and travelling around Spain and Portugal on this trip, he has 30,000 plus miles under his belt since he purchased his van a few years ago, mostly in Europe, hats off to him. We had a good chat over a few drinks, exchanging info, as is common, and we exchanged address's and will keep in touch.
8th May
After saying adios to Tim, we are driving east towards Villada, along the route we want to stop at an aire in the town of Valencia do Don Juan for future reference,
There was an old castle in the town, it features on the front cover of the Vicarious Spain and Portugal Aires book we have.
We checked out the Aire in the town, it was not a place we would stay unless we had been driving all day and needed to rest, it was while we were here we had a change of plan. I will say Sam spends ages sifting through different web sites and books for places to stay, and of interest, but having looked at Villada again and we choose to go to the town of Ampudia?.There is a method in our thinking though, as it will take us onto the following destination we found out about while having a break at Valencia do Don Juan.
134 miles 2hrs 40min
A map showing the other camper stops in the district.
For a while we were the only van on site, but shortly after we were joined by a French couple.
We took a walk up to the castle and adjacent church, then around the town. The town is old and has character, the upper floor of the houses are built on stilts, some wooden some stone.
Castillo de Ampudia. Featured in the film El Cid
Around the outskirts of the castle are numerous cave houses, they reminded me of the Hobbit houses in Lord of the Rings.
The old church aside the castle, and from inside.
The town is fantastic to walk around, there is so much of interest, but it’s one failing being, there was no bar? We walked all the side streets and found only a restaurant and a small convenience shop.
The buildings are supported by these very old wood poles that are sat unattached on stone pillars, with just the weight holding them in place. I took a video of the town and will post on YouTube
Ampudia is a great place to visit,it also has a cathedral, we are now glad that we had a change of plan earlier in the day
The tower of the Colegiata.
9th May
Today we left the amazing town of Ampudia and set off for Hontario del Pinar along the way we could see the snow capped peaks of the Picos de Urbion. Our route took us on the very scenic BU900 road, and we stopped at the small town of Santo Domingo de Silos for a break,
We are in the Sierra de la Demada, and although it ‘s not an official Aire, there is a large car park on the edge of the town, that you could overnight here?
112 miles 2hrs 40min
Hontario del Pinar is sandwiched between the Reserve Natural de Urbion and the Parque del Canon del Rio Lobos (Wolf River Gorge Park) Once again a free Aire with usual services 41.8444360 –3.165260
Shortly after arriving I saw vultures hovering above then they dropped down to the ground in the distance to feast on a carcass of some animal.
Although they were some way from the van, I was able to record it on a video, and will also post on YouTube.
Hontario del Pinar is another nice spot if you are in the area, there are several bars and restaurants along with a few shops.
There was an old church near the site and we climbed a peak that overlooked the town.
The old nearby church and the Aire from the top of the mountain
We took a wander into the town and visited two of it’s bars, after a dry day at Ampudia yesterday, while sitting outside in the sun at one of the bars I noticed a living flag pole
I’m not sure of the history of this stone pillar, but it had two shackles on which some scroat would possibly be attached, and then either flogged or just left there to be ridiculed or pelted with tomatoes?
10th May
Today's jaunt took us along the N234 into the city of Soria and then the N122 onto the town of Agreda. Another spectacular drive through the National Park. We passed numerous sawmills and many logging operations on our way to Soria, the road was quite nondescript for the remainder of the journey albeit a good road and pleasant drive.
72 miles 1hr 30min
The Aire is situated on the outskirts of the town besides a picnic area in a park, once again free with services and according to one of our Aire sources, it has showers. 41.847431 –1.930020
Agreda is my type of town, a mixture of old and new, plenty of bars shops etc with a few old monuments thrown in.
The old square has five bars alone, one has good wifi and i’m able to catch up on my football and what’s been happening in the world. It was interesting to watch the old chaps playing cards and drinking large schooners of wine.
Well no shock Numpty has gone for a 2-0 Arsenal win, but what has shocked me, is the buffoon Cameron has been re-elected! Ed, Clegg and Farage all on their swords and resign, I didn’t see that coming? I thought Ed was over the line weeks ago?
These three old building's are celebrating 350 years since they were built
The narrow streets of Agreda
There are quite a few vans at the site mostly Spanish, we like the town and will stop another day.
11th May
There was a railway that served Agreda at some time, opposite the site is the old station, unfortunately the last train from Agreda left sometime ago judging by the overgrown tracks and dilapidated building. There is a good sized supermarket behind the old station, about a five minute walk, while there I picked up a bottle of Rioja for 2.60€, quite nice too, I’ll be buying more of that before we leave Spain.
We are the only van here now, everyone else pulled out this morning, it’s quiet with just the odd person taking a walk through the park.
We took another walk into the town today, and appreciated more of its character and beauty.
We found more buildings within the town with banners draped, celebrating 350 years,
Unfortunately this old church did not survive to celebrate.
Another find, a sports bar, but not open till later,
The Yummy Bar advertising Goodwood festival of speed and Britain's one time best Sunday drivel.
On our way back after a few pit stops, we walked through the pretty park with picnic areas, unspoilt by local reprobates, and came across a sulphur spring said to cure many ailments, being of sound health we did not have use for it’s healing properties.
We could stay here a week or more, it’s a great town with nice bars, with plenty of alfresco seating, but we will move on tomorrow and sample more of what Spain has to offer.
An update on the weather, for the last 4 days it has been dry and hot and getting hotter, more of an oppressive heat unlike Morocco, but welcome all the same.
12th May
Today another landmark, we have been on the road for 6 months, time stands still for no one! We have a short drive today all 36 miles to a place called Arguedos.41.172699, -1.591300
38 miles 50mins
Once again the Aire is free, but you need tokens for your fresh water, there are a few shops and bars in the town selling them, you will see the campervan sign, by the way you need to follow the campervan signs, that take you on the outskirts of the town and don’t follow the satnav!!!
At the site you are facing the mountain and there are many cave houses built into it, none appear to be lived in anymore. But according to a sign we saw inhabited during the 19th and 20th century.
Home of the Troglodyte.
There was a sign saying not to enter the dwellings for fear of collapse, I figured they had weathered god how many years till now, and chanced my arm, I've never been one for rules, like the don’t walk on the grass sign’s as a kid!
Another old church.
The sign says there has been a church on this site since the 9th century, and this one was started in 1560 and completed in 1612.
The town has 14 bars and we were able to sit in the shade as the weather has become quite unbearable with the heat, I never thought I'd say that! I mentioned earlier about it being different to Morocco, this heat makes you sweat just looking at it, not a dry heat, very humid.
My type of place.
Not so good news, my Yoigo sim card does not work for some reason? We need to find another shop to sort it out, but great news, the town has free internet, I am able to post a few videos to YouTube and draft my blog over, and also I find out the mighty Swans do the double over Arsenal, and Wenger is moaning we didn’t come to play? “TOUGH”. He mentioned it in his forecast’s this week that he keeps getting Swansea wrong, and yet again that idiot Lawro Fails!! Once a numpty always a numpty.
The last seven days we have visited many places, this part of Spain is equal to the interior of Portugal, we have enjoyed it, next week we will probably be in France somewhere? I will post the blog whenever I get the chance.
A happy 70th birthday to Pauline, I would guess she will be celebrating in Sorento this evening.
P.s 9.0 pm and its 28c, the caves are lit up with different coloured floodlights, it's a beautiful evening. The site stipulates no camping activities, i.e. no tables and chairs, awnings etc. I look around and there are about 10 vans here, everyone has their tables and chairs out, and disregard the rules, we have done the same!
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Marc and Sam