South to Agadir

23rd & 24th Jan


We stopped another day at Camping le Calme, the weather is great and very warm. We sat outside for most of the day, catching the rays and generally just chilling.
Saturday we packed up and left for Sidi Kaouki, a short distance along the coast South. We did a quick stop at Essaouira to get some cash and fresh food then headed back along the same road to Sidi Kaouki.

Horse drawn Taxi's in Essaouira

It is a small Berber village, set in a 5km bay, and is named after a 19th-century Marabout his dilapidated shrine by the sea still attracts pilgrims. Although we are yet to find it?

The campsite 31°20'58.7"N 9°47'45.7"W is situated 100 metres from the beach it has all the services plus wifi 85dir, we will probably stay here a few days.

 

 

After setting up I have my usual daily snack, a tin of sardines and a culf of bread. Morocco being the largest canned sardine exporter in the world and the leading supplier of sardines to the European market (Wikipedia) and they are so cheap and a nice snack.
A British van had pulled in later and I got chatting to them, they are also from the MHF, Colin and Sandra with their Border Terrier Izzy from Leicester. We had a brief chat,  they are stopping for a few days so we will have a beer or two with them later. Coincidently we are both cooking Tagine for supper tonight?
Sam got an email from another forum today, and they have included our blog on their website and a link to it  www.clubmotorhome.co.uk
It's a day of FA cup upsets? Swansea go out with a whimper in the early game, then later Chelsea, Man City, Spurs and our neighbours from down the road to boot, I really don't feel so bad now, but it's another poor performance by us!

25th - 27th Jan

We stayed at Sidi Kouiki for four days, the weather is getting hotter, far warmer than our best British summers, and there has not been a cloud in the sky for days. There is a lot of construction going on in the area again to cater for the tourists.

New apartments along the coast road

 

We have been going for walks with Colin and Sandra with the dogs, the last few days. The dogs have been getting on well, it has been nice for Max to socialise.

The Sidi Kouiki Four

Café 50m from the beach

One day we walked towards what appeared the end of the beach only to find that after the rocks on the far end, the beach continues for a few more kilometres, so it was nice to find a café and have a coffee. By 3pm the sun was overhead and it was scorching.

We found another campsite a few hundred metres along the road, It looks good, but on first impressions I prefer the one we are on.

 

Max and Izzy rock pooling

It's been nice to have company for a change. Sunday evening we spent sitting outside our van enjoying some refreshments and nibbles and last night we had a BBQ at their van.

 Our local Caterways store

 The Local Hotel

 Sidi Kouiki

A couple of restaurants along the front

Colin and Sandra left at noon today, they are heading into Essaouira for a few days, we will hopefully meet up further down the coast. We will be moving on tomorrow taking the coast road towards Agadir. I uploaded this video of some of the roads and villages we have passed through on our way down.

28th Jan


We left Sidi Kouiki and followed the coast road further down to a fishing village called Cap Tafelney 31°05'34.8"N 9°49'01.2"W ,had I knew what the road was like, I can tell you I would not have gone there.
We left the N1 and picked up a single track road P2226. it then started to climb the mountains fortunately being right hand drive I was on the inside, unfortunately I could still see the drop on the passenger side. There are no barriers just sheer drops with the odd passing cut into the mountain to allow vehicles to pass every few km. Then on the descent into the village you have to take a switchback bend a complete sharp U bend with a drop off straight over the cliff? Our lives were in Kevin O'Neils hands, so glad he sorted my brakes before we left.

 

 

The village and setting was a gem and we had planned to stay a few days, it was 30dir basic services, there were a few other vans there, and I asked a few if there was another road out, I was told yes but not suitable for Camping Cars? 

29th Jan

I did not sleep well last night, thinking about having to drive back along the road this time the drop would be on my side. So this morning I decided to leave and face it. Thirty minutes later we re-joined the N1, which was now feeling like a super highway compared to the P road, phew I would not want to do that again..
We are driving to Tagahzoute just outside Agadir the road passed through some nice villages on the way, one being a Banana plantation village Tamri . As we were driving I noticed another Van behind, and a few miles down the road we pulled over for Max, the van also pulled over it was Colin and Sandra they are also on their way to Tagahzoute, but are staying on guardian parking on the beach about 10km from where we are staying. We decided to have a coffee but our stopping brought all the children from the local village to see us, and after dispersing with our chocolates we moved further along the coast and had a brew.
We are staying at Camping Atlantica 140dir all in 30°35'19.3"N 9°44'54.7"W , it's expensive for over here, but I want a few days to get over my mountain crossing.
The site has everything including a swimming pool and water park. I notice a few British vans but 98% are French vans and the site can hold up to 600 vans and its nearly full?

We took Max for a stroll into the village and came across an area of ground that the French had taken over to play Boules.
The weather has been hot again today mid 30s, it is getting better as we drive south.

Along The Coast Road

16th Jan

This morning we left El Jadida and took the R301 along the coast. The road isn't busy, and a pleasant drive. We stopped at a place called Oualidia. a pretty coastal village with an Aire 32°43'57.4"N 9°02'34.0"W

Oualidia is a very modern coastal town with plenty of restaurants specialising in seafood, it is particularly famous for it's Oysters. It's a nice location and we decide to stay 25dir, no services, guardian parking! There are about 50 vans parked up.

 A very modern Oualidia

 

The beach is another gem, with a few lagoons attached by small inlets. The waves smash against the rocky breakwater. Max was able to stretch his legs and have a good run around.

 Toilets on the beach. My first thoughts Billy Bridgend?

 

You always get vendors tapping the window selling fish, oysters, clams and all sorts of fruit, and back at the van a bit later a vendor came by selling made to order Tagine, made by his wife. Although we had Tagine last night we decided to order a chicken Tagine for 6.30pm this evening at a cost of 100dir. The chaps name is Ali, he spoke good English. He said my English was good, and liked the way I spoke it? "eh"  

It will be good to compare Ali's wife's traditionally cooked Tagine with mine! Lets see what my Sous Chef says?  

Tagine for Two

 

The jury is out on the Tagine, split vote

6.30pm prompt Ali arrived on his Moped with our takeaway. Delivered in the Tagine pot? He tells me he will pick up the Tagine pot at 9am in the morning, so I ask him to pick me up a hubcap and a cake for Sam's birthday. He said his wife will make the cake, no problems and he will pick me up a large loaf. Good man.

The Tagine is delicious, there are a few ingredient's I didn't use in mine, but it was spot on. 9/10

 

17th Jan

 

An early, start Ali is coming by to pick up his Tagine pot, 9pm prompt he arrives, with a nice cake "still warm" that his wife had made and a hubcap. I square up with him and give him a tip, we shake hands and bade him farewell, shortly after a vendor comes by selling fish "sole/dab" he asks for 100dir for the four I want, I start off at 50dir "I always half what they want" to his disgust, he asks 80 I say 60, he asks 70, after some haggling we strike the deal at 70dir. I give him a 100 note, he has no change, so I give him all my coins 65dir. He then guts the fish for me and walks away happy. Shame you can't haggle for beer back home?

 

We left Oualidia and carried on down the N301 coast road to Safi. The views are stunning, the drive is fantastic, not much traffic and the odd village, it certainly hugs the coastline

 

 

 

We find the campsite 32°19'02.2"N 9°14'19.2"W. It is on the North side of Safi 90dir all in no wifi. We took a stroll down the hill to find the town, but gave up at the bottom after about 1km as it was still quite a hike, there were a few restaurants which were full of Moroccan's dining out. 

We later realise we are next to a mosque? And I mean next door, you can hear them chanting from inside.

 There are Peacocks roaming this site also another thing Max isn't too sure of

 

There are a few sites between Safi and Essaouira we have plans to stay at, so we will be on the coast road for a few more days?

It is Sam's birthday today, we will have the fish we got this morning for supper. We tried the cake it was smashing, a kind of citrus sponge cake with grapes, goes well with a cuppa!

Tonight I will have a wee drink with Sam.

Swansea have been smashed by Chelsea 5-0.. No more to say on that to be honest.

 

18th Jan

Today we have decided to stop at a small fishing village called Souira Kedima about 32km along the R301 from Safi. The road is poor in places, but very scenic passing through small villages, it also hugs the coast all the way. 

We arrive at Souira Kedima at midday, 32°02'24.5"N 9°20'30.0"W  It costs 25dir to park no services. There are about 10 vans parked up so we find a spot overlooking the sea.  It’s a nice place, it is being developed with tourism in mind. There is a large Berber tent on the promenade selling food and it appears very popular with the locals. The owner has a monkey tethered outside, it spends its day walking in circles, a sad sight. Later on the rain started and it carried on throughout the night, it was lashing down and that poor monkey was out in it!

Overlooking Souiri Kedima from the R301 

 

 

19th Jan

We left early today we are heading to a place on the outskirts of Essaouira, again the drive is very pleasant it is 85km and the last few days have been the best for driving. Along the way we spot a sign for camping in a small village on the seafront.  We found the place on the internet http://www.camping-essaouira.com/  It looks a fantastic spot.

There is a dirt track road leading to it across a lagoon

We stopped at the new Carrefour supermarket in Essaouira to pick up more beer and essentials, I spend quite a bit, but have replenished the stock! 

The site we are stopping at it is in the middle of nowhere, Camping Esprit Nature 17km on the way to Marrakesh from Essaouira, 31°33'09.9"N 9°37'34.4"W it is along a dirt track for a few km. It is owned by a French couple, The site is the best we have stayed at whilst in Morocco, well laid out with all services 120dir but no wifi and my Huawei is not picking up any signal either.

 

It has nice flat large gravel bays, the toilet block has just been finished to a very high "European" standard, and it is so peaceful. If it had wifi, I would stop here for a few days.

 

20th Jan

 

Today we headed into Essaouira to an Aire on the seafront, 31°29'40.3"N 9°45'51.8"W

after taking the dirt road another way, we end up on the R301 after about 20km of dirt road. It was quite a journey, but we saw the real Morocco.  

 

 

 Looking at Essaouira from the beach

Ile De Mogador

It is 38 years since I last visited this place and it has changed dramatically, it has been developed so much.

After settling in and a brisk walk along the beach and taking this video, we notice quite a few British vans, later we get a knock on the door from a chap off the Motorhome Fun forum Don. We chat for a while, he lives in Spain near Alicante, then along comes Ken "Timetraveller" everyone has a pseudonym on the MHF site, and later Dave aka "Busman" who I was originally going to meet in Algeciras and travel over to Morocco with, he is also here. They have come from Marrakesh and are all heading to Tagahzoute Beach tomorrow, near Agadir the weather is warmer there. Again it rained most of the night but was clear and warm again by the morning.

 

21st Jan

 

We took off this morning after a walk and headed for Idaougourd, a small village 16km from Essaouira. We found out about it from the web and their website Camping le Calme.

We took the P2122 off the N1, although this road had tarmac it was one lane only, so you had to mount the verge when oncoming traffic appeared 31°26'02.4"N 9°39'19.3"W

This site is also in the countryside, and again well laid out with all the facilities at 100dir including wifi lounge.

It has nice accommodation to rent and a nice restaurant. We choose it as we needed to catch up on the laundry. We picked a good day as the sun was scorching 32c and it dried the washing very quick.

Sam was happy with the washing machines.

We ordered a Tagine each for later one beef one chicken so we can share, and compare to my finest beef Tagine I made last Thursday.

 

Sorry Max meal for TWO

The Tagines were ready for 7pm and were delicious. There is a video on YouTube. Camping le Calme have uploaded.  

 

22nd Jan

 

We have stopped here for another day to chill out with no driving. The weather is much better since we had the rain, it is 35c outside.

 The café and wifi area

These ornate water fountains are dotted around the campsite

Peacocks on this site also. Maybe they migrate here?

 

Mark 6:41 Minus one loaf and a fish

 

Today Sam has decided to try her hand at making Moroccan bread. It turned out very good. Although I'm not sure if cost wise? A hubcap is about 2dir = 14p, it will make a good accompaniment to go with my Tagine though.

We are undecided whether to stop here another day or back into Essaouira "I want to go to the medina", or head south along the coast towards Agadir. 

Today we have been two weeks in Morocco , and enjoying the culture and diversity that Morocco has to offer, plus the fantastic weather. The forecast for the week ahead is bright sunshine.