23rd April (Cont)
I meant to mention in last weeks short blog about a local celebrity in the area of Guia. Non other than Sir Cliff, his drum is called Adega de Cantor “Winery of the Singer” he even has a street named after him in Albufeira, such is his popularity?
Anyhow after stopping at the hypermarket to stock up on wine and other essentials, we drove up the IC1 to Castro Verde and along the scenic N123 through the national park town of Mertola and onto Mina de Sao Domingos. 37°40'20.0"N 7°30'15.0"W
Driving through the park we see hundreds of storks nesting on telegraph poles, nearly every telegraph pole had a nest, and sparrows where using the underneath of the nest to use as a home also.
The town of Sao Domingos is as far removed from the plush villas of the Algarve as possible, this is rural Portugal.
The village was purpose made for the workers at the nearby now closed mines
The ornate Sao Domingos church
When we arrived late afternoon the weather was extremely hot, so we wandered into the town to find some shade, we did not have to walk too far before we found a quiet bar,
The site is free, it has showers and a Euro Relais point close by, you wonder why the UK have not adopted a similar system for Motorhomes, but there again apart from Scotland the UK is not very MH tolerant, apart from to say getting you onto expensive owned sites. We were also lucky to get in, there was only two spaces left and one was next to a French chap with an Alsatian "not an option with Max", so we parked at the other end near the bins.
There are quite a few British vans along with several Dutch and a token French van.
At these Euro Relais points you can dump your waste, and for a nominal amount take on fresh water, and charge your batteries.
The site is situated next to a lake “Tapada Grande” with a cafe, we are able to pick up free wifi from the cafe from the van, an added bonus. There are some nice trails to follow in the surrounding countryside, will check them out tomorrow.
24th April
Today we went in search of the lost mines of Sao Domingos, not exactly lost well sign posted in fact.
The mines have been closed for some time, and they have flooded the open cast pits. It was an Interesting walk with plenty of signage to let you know what you were looking at, and the different processes involved.
The signs were in Portuguese and English, luckily for us
It took nearly three hours there and back, I digested it all, there was a lot to read, although I don’t think Sam shared my enthusiasm. Coming from a steel town, I was in my oils.
Video of the old mines
25th April
It is an overcast and a grey day, along the way I got a better picture of three nesting storks
We arrived at the historical hilltop village of Monsaraz. It is one of the oldest settlements in Portugal, and it overlooks the surrounding countryside and the Rio Guadiana. 38°26'35.0"N 7°22'46.2"W. The river separates Portugal from Spain.
The view from our van. Spain in the distance
It’s a free Aire and although there are no services at the parking areas, there is a service area about 2km along the road. We parked up and have a great view all around, there are a couple of vans here and a few on the lower level, once set up we took a walk into the village.
When you pass through the main door you have a sensation of entering the past, with it’s 16th century white washed houses and narrow cobbled stone roads, there are a few souvenir type shops selling local art crafts and the like and a few restaurants.
Within the castle there is a bullring, where bullfights take place several times a year
Video of Monsaraz
26th April
It hammered down early this morning, I've not seen it rain that hard in awhile. We said goodbye to Dave and Sue, and exchanged email’s. I hope they have a great time, as we did down South.
I got a text from my friend Jeff yesterday, saying “Get in” obviously Swansea are losing, Jeff being a Geordie, I find out this morning that Swansea won 2-3, a great result and a good fight back. Numpty Lawro sat on the fence this week and predicted 1-1.
Satnav set we are on our way to a place called Terrugem 38°50'44.1"N 7°20'55.4"W It is also close to the Spanish border near to Badajoz, a place my grandfather was born many moons ago. The road took us through many small villages and open countryside, we passed hundreds of Olive groves and Vineyards.
Once more it is a free Aire with some services, we are able to take on fresh water and empty our tanks. It can hold 30 vans and there is a small cafe/bar across the road, but we are not in the drinking mood after last nights excess. The weather can’t make its mind up it rains for 20 minutes then it’s sunny for an hour or so, we have a relaxing day, doing nothing.
27th April
Set off for today's stop, it’s a bit brighter than yesterday, but still cloudy. We are heading to Barragem da Povoa near Castelo de Vide, Portalegre, we disregard the satnavs and take the scenic route through the countryside passing through Santa Eulalia and Arronches as far as Portalegre, a quick stop at the hypermarket in Portalegre and it was onto our destination for the day.
Along the way we pass many granite quarries, it is one of the main economic activities of the area, along with wine and olives, the region of Portalegre is on one of the sides of Serra de São Mamede overlooking Spain. It was an enjoyable drive. 39°29'02.2"N 7°32'51.4"W
The town of Arronches
The Aire is aside the Dam Varzim, which began operation in 1927 producing hydro electricity, at the time it was the largest hydro plant in Portugal. You have to drive over the dam which is wide enough for one vehicle, and controlled by traffic lights, you then pass through a small hamlet with a few houses and a restaurant/bar.
Once again it's a free Aire with showers, toilets and water etc. We parked at the top in the official parking area, but we notice several vans parked close to the waters edge, after a quick scout about all the best spots are taken, we will have to stay put.
The Aire was purpose built in 2012 for motorhomes, although we do see a caravan parked up, tuggers/shed draggers aren't allowed on Aires in France, Portugal is obviously different
You got to hand it to the Portuguese councils for building these great Aires, in some of the most scenic areas of the country, supplying showers, toilets, water and waste facilities for free.
On our scout about we came across a necropolis, with 8 graves lined facing the orient, as the sign stated.
It was discovered in 1971 and excavated 10 years later, and dated before the Barbarian Invasions.
We took another walk later, there are quite a few trails around the area ideal for going on a yomp with Max. The local bar was not hard to find either, so we sat outside in a lovely picnic area for a couple before retiring for our supper.
These Granite tables are thief proof
There are many picnic areas like this in Portugal and Spain, BBQ and washing stations for families to use in their leisure time. You know for some reason I don’t think they would still be fit for purpose in the UK, with the mindless yobs that desecrate and wreck everything on a whim because they have nothing better to do. A different culture exists, a time many of us of the older ilk can remember back to in the UK, many moons ago!
28th April
The sun is shinning and it’s hot again at last. We took off at midday for a walk, following a trail that took us alongside the lake, 90 minutes later we found ourselves the other side overlooking the dam, unfortunately that was the end of the trail, we had thought it would go all the way around, it didn’t so we did the same walk back, oh well.
The Varzim Dam
The Aire from across the lake
We could stay here for a few more days, it’s that nice and peaceful with great scenery, a fantastic place.
We are going to Benquerenca tomorrow, on the recommendation of Dave who we met in Morocco, if we can drag ourselves away from here.
29th April
Satnavs set it’s 130km to Benquerenca, we shoot off at 10am they say it will take an hour and forty eight minutes, not long after we cross a bridge over the Rio Tejo, and enter the small town of Vila Velha da Rodao, a photo opportunity if ever one arises.
A Dutch couple also stopped to take snaps, there was some impressive views from the bridge.
The Rio Tejo is the longest waterway of the Iberian Peninsula. It rises in the Sierra de Albarracín of eastern Spain about 90 miles from the Mediterranean coast, and flows westward across Spain and Portugal, for 626 miles to empty into the Atlantic Ocean near Lisbon. Cheers wiki!
Onwards to Benquerenca, after passing through the city of Castelo Branco we took the scenic route again along the N233 as far as Penemacor and Meimoa. Our trouble began as we approached Benqueranca one satnav said turn right the other straight on. Dave had told us not to take the first turn but to carry on to the next turn as there were road works, we carried on awhile and both satnavs agreed on the next turn, however there was road works here and no entry! Not being able to do a U turn and my TomTom trying to get me up streets not wide enough for a wheelbarrow, and the Chinese truck nav saying NO, we ended up on the outskirts of the town and I pulled over, we realised Dave must have came from the other direction. We made a joint decision(well sort of) to give it a miss and find another site close by?
There was a site in Belmonte 11 miles away so set the satnavs and on we went, arriving there we climbed up through the town and hit a diversion sign, more road works! Following the diversion signs both satnavs are trying to take us on alternative routes that are blocked off with cones!! and then to top it off the diversion points up a cobblestone hill Eddie the Eagle would not have come down. With cars behind me I back out at the last minute and swerve past it and find a place to pull over. No joint decision this time I’m taking charge, find another site Sam, as I got out to let off steam and stretch my legs,
There is another site about twenty odd miles near Manteigas in the Parque Natural da Serra da Estrela, Sam said busily searching the CapmperContact app on her phone , spot on I said and off we go. Unbeknown to either of us and the name should have given it away, “Star Mountain” It is in the highest mountain range of mainland Portugal.
At first I was thinking this is Idyllic, in a National Park, an omen the gods are with us, the roads were twisting slightly and narrow but ok, then we started to climb, and then mayhem, both shatnavs have took us into the town of Manteigas, FAIL! After driving around the loop cobblestone road of the town, narrowly avoiding scraping the walls of buildings and the sides of parked cars, by this time both electronic lumps of dog doo were at odds with each other recalculating every few minutes, one telling me to go back, the other down a steep side road that I took one look at and yelled, “No ------- Way Jose”.
Our drive from Manteigas click on the link to expand in google maps
I pulled over to regain my composure, dragging on my cigarette looking at the town below, a lizard on the wall stood deathly still, not wishing to get on the wrong side of me, it must have sensed I was bouncing, the brief love affair with the park was over I wanted out. Sam reset the co-ords to one of the navs to a place just on the outskirts of the park and we moved on, found the N232 again “still can’t figure why both navs took us into the town” and we began to climb and climb and climb.
Manteigas a third of the way up
Nearing the summit
We drove uphill for what seemed forever, I kept saying we are still climbing, when I said the gods were with us earlier, we were with them now. The mountain range is over 6500 feet, I’m not sure if we were on Torre the highest, if we weren’t there was only inches in it? Some way up we were stopped by an escort vehicle telling us that a wide load was coming our way, we pulled over as far as possible and it scraped by, there was no way I was reversing back down that mountain. At the top there is a restaurant with great vistas, then we stated to descend.
One of the navs indicated a left turn to the original campsite we had re-planned to stay at a place called Sabugueiro, I took one look at the road going down “no ta”, and continued down the ever winding road into the town of Gouveia. Oddly enough a few km before the town there is a sign to check your brakes and use low ratio? I would have thought that the sign should have been on the other side before you started climbing?
A quick stop at Lidl and we arrive at the site 250km and 7 hours later, including a few Max breaks. 40°31'24.4"N 7°34'30.5"W
The site is situated in the countryside in Sao Paio near to Gouveia and owned by a friendly Dutch couple Albert and Agnes. The place is called Quinta Das Gralhas It has full facilities inc EHU and wifi @15€ a bit pricey, but we ain't shelled out on camp fees this week and we just need a place to park up for the night after today's journey.
There is not a lot around the area, there are a few people full timing here in their vans, and after a short walk we settled in and planned tomorrows route.
A British horsebox?
The town Of Sao Paio
30th April
A bread van calls at the site every morning, I said to Sam to see if he has any cake’s, she returned with what she thought was a cake in the bag, it turned out to be a savoury bread.
We found out it was a Folar de Chaves
Folars are a traditional Portuguese bread typically served during the time of Easter. Folar de Chaves originates in the north-eastern Portuguese regions of Chaves. It is a savory egg rich meat bread which is stuffed with various signature Portuguese meats such as chorizo and ham, although there are many variations with different meat components. Well it wasn’t what I expected, but with a name like that it has to be good!
We have a change of plan from last night and we opt for a place called Torre de Montcorvo. For most of the drive we are on the IP2 a great road no worse than their motorways. We crossed the Rio Duero, the grapes from this region are used to make Port, we saw hectares of vineyards.
We are now in the district of Braganca the town is nice, set like most high on a mountain. in the Serra de Reboredo. Again a free Aire with the usual services.
A stroll into town and there was some sort of festival going on, the bunting was out on the streets, but I never found out what was going on?
The Church is classified as national heritage and regarded as the largest religious temple of Tras-os-Montes province
There was also some sort of archaeological find in 1955, just a hole in the ground, nevertheless I took some pictures.
We will stay here tonight and ship out in the morning.
Some views from the van
1st May
Rained first thing, we are heading 26 miles east to a small town of Freixo de Espada ἁ Cinta. It is in the Parque Natural Douro Internacional, the Rio Douro separates it from Spain. 41.088507, -6.817337
Another free Aire, it was opened in 2009. Not only does it have all the services including numerous water taps, you get free electricity. There are two EHU stations with 6 outlets in each.
Ok, day 171 of our trip, we had planned to leave Portugal by today, but it looks like it may be a few more days, has we have two more places, Izeda and Braganca to visit before we leave!
A special day is marked in the calendar? Max’s birthday, the fella is 4 years old, I bought him a ball but cannot find it in the van, hopefully I can get another in the town?
Another nice town with character. Jorge Álvares was born here, he is credited as the first European explorer to reach China and Hong Kong by sea.
The town has kept it’s originality, old houses have been bought into the 21st century, with sympathetic makeovers, The old and the new blend well together.
I took a stroll into the small cemetery that was perched high overlooking the town, and was amazed of how well maintained all the plots were, new flowers were on all the graves, battery operated red lanterns flickered, some of the marble headstones had pictures of the deceased etched onto them, many of the tombs had several interned, they also had mausoleums for whole families. (people with money at a guess) There were a few old ladies tending, wiping the marble stones and weeding around the plots, and you sensed a respect for those no longer with us.
The Catholic faith has a strong family ethos, my grandfather was Catholic, but renounced his faith during the Spanish civil war, and the outbreak of WWII. No Mas he told the local priest, that visited one Sunday afternoon, ponce’in for cash, and not a penny more went into the collection box! I do wonder if I would have turned out any different being brought up as a catholic, but I've always been a firm believer that you don’t need to go to church to be a Christian or have Christian value's
Just outside the cemetery there is an old Ash tree with a metal belt and sword around the trunk, oddly the lower part of the trunk is hollow. Later I found out through "wiki" that the towns name Espada na Cinta de um Freixo (literally means sword on the belt of an ash)
The tree still flourishes even though the internal body of it has eroded over time.
Stopping at a bar in the centre of town, I found out what’s going on in Portugal, posters were up advertising a festival all weekend, It’s May day and they celebrate it on the day, not like the UK, who wait till the first Monday!
Portuguese festivals entail singing dancing and drinking copious amounts of wine, right up our street.
We both come to the conclusion that to stay another day may be in order here, we are on a nice site in the heart of the town, there is a large old church on the hill that we did not have chance to visit today, and besides we are in no rush to leave Portugal let the party begin.
I hope this wine tasting shop is open tomorrow
Note: I am pleased with my new camera as you may have noticed, I have also tried to make up for last weeks shortcomings with this weeks blog, so I hope you enjoy, comments always welcome.
Bye the way Numpty has predicted a draw against Stoke, hopefully he is wrong as we will cement our 8th place, a good season in my eyes.
See you all next week in Spain, Adios!
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Marc and Sam